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Andalusia, the southernmost region of Spain offers great cinema: fantastic winding roads through the Sierras, magnificent Moorish buildings such as Alhambra and La Mezquita and African flair in the Natural Park Cabo de Gata.


Cabo de Gata, Andalusia, 22 degrees. Finally, to come in the spring. After the long winter had the urge to ride motorcycles in the south, huge. And not our geography teacher said at the time, the spring always come from the southwest? forget So come to Andalusia, the winter. What is child in the Natural Park Cabo de Gata. Nowhere else in Spain, it is dry and African. Brown volcanoes, high yellow grass, agave, cactus and palm trees, the small towns are made of snow white cubic stone houses, dusty roads end at deserted beaches. An area perfectly suited to relax, recharge heat. In the past, and have hippies living artists gathered here are a few left, rotate joints and listening to the waves.

The next asphalt curves are not far, but rises only 40 kilometers north of the Sierra de los Filabres at over 2000 meters. The Michelin map lures with a cast of yellow and white lines, a maze of trails and roads. Even if one invests alpine standards, will ennoble this area with the maximum score. Nowhere else in Andalusia there is this fascinating mix of roads with potential for addiction, loneliness and great scenery. In Velefique, a tiny village begins at the foot of the Sierra, one of the most spectacular passes of Spain, the Alto de Velefique. 1050 meters high, the best curves and turns and a breathtaking view from the top on this piece of art Iberian road construction. For an hour I do not see a vehicle.

Through the fragrant pine forest I drive on the Tenere and up to the Calar Alto, with 2168 meters the highest mountain in the Sierra and site of Europe’s largest observatory. Not bad, the view from here: In the south are spreading the ugly, almost endless green houses, reminiscent of giant mattresses for the landing of aliens, and far to the west tower of the snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada, my next goal.

A narrow, winding road linking the old and small mountain villages at the southern edge of the Sierra, the Alpujarras altas. In Capileira, an ancient city with steep and narrow streets, will begin Europe’s highest mountain pass up to the Mulhacen, 3481 meters high. In 1989, however, the Sierra Nevada declared a nature park and blocked the road. At least I can Capileira climb another 13 kilometers on the mountain entirely legal, the last eight are unpaved. It is worthwhile, because I come closer to the mountain giants and Veleta Mulhacen a motorcycle anywhere.

The total contrast to the stillness of the Sierra Nevada, Granada is the bustling, hectic, and thanks to the incomprehensible way street system is often annoying big city with the absolute peak, the old Moorish Alhambra palace ruler. Three million visitors a year will feel the atmosphere of Arabian Nights. But to get hold of tickets are usually only well in advance. The whole week is booked. So I just the view from the Mirador San Nicolas is across the Alhambra.

If I have no luck, then maybe in the Great Mosque of Cordoba, the less crowded second Moorish Andalusian building with Unesco’s World Heritage award. Early the next morning, I’m there, dive into the mystical half-light of the huge mosque, La Mezquita, the few not call one of the world’s most beautiful buildings. 856 marble columns, all linked together by arches carrying the roof in perfect harmony. The 1200 year old oriental forest of columns charmed me, can forget the time. But there is a warning sign. In the middle of the mosque is a pompous Cathedral, demonstration of power of the Christians after the Reconquista. The Christians destroyed the civilization of the Arabs were barbarians compared to the educated Arabs who were mostly illiterate, who plundered ruthlessly murdered and expelled all foreigners authorized by the Pope. King Ferdinand V, the construction of the cathedral in the 16th Century allowed, recognized his mistake too late “. You’ve built something that you would be able to build anywhere and you’ve destroyed something that was unique.”

Words that still haunt me, as I have long since packed up and Tenere Cordoba leave south. Course Mediterranean, through endless olive groves. But it gets exciting when the A4050 to fuck with the Sierra del Chaparral, bizarre white limestone cliffs, deep gorges and spectacular views of the sea. 1200 meter and felt 500 curves to the Costa del Sol – one dream! Costa del Sol – the reputation of this raping of concrete structures of all ugliness coast is legendary. Nevertheless, I discover between Nerja and Almunecar an almost pristine coastline with ancient watchtowers and unpopulated beaches. But from Torrox beats the concrete empire back mercilessly: endless, faceless places with Lidl and Aldi, housing developments, which are nine months in hibernation, nature far too much traffic, built-in views and destroyed. If only to escape into the interior, in the Sierra Ronda.

Barely ten miles beyond the coast I dive back into the other Andalusia, follow perfect bike routes that wind through the green mountains and get past the “pueblos blancos”, snow-white historic villages, the attractions of this region. One of them is Grazalema, the wettest place in Spain at the foot of the same Sierra. 2500 mm of rain per year heave Grazalema in the top ten of Europe’s rain holes, along with so notorious as the Scottish Highlands.

About the Puerto de las Palomas, the best fit for miles around, I swing to Zahara, a picturesque village on the same reservoir. White houses cling to the rock on which stands a Moorish ruins. The Ténéré is for some streets almost too rich. With slipping clutch I balance the load on steep concrete paths up to the Plaza. The cafe has tasty tapas comes as called.

Too bad that so early in the year in the Sierras arg is still fresh. The spring I can not find here. So I give the Yamaha, the spores, hold southwest course and curve to the southernmost point of mainland Europe, to Tarifa. Links the Mediterranean Sea, right on the Atlantic, 14 miles away across the Strait of Gibraltar is Africa. Tempting. Warm wind rustles through the palms on the beach. The XXL-ice-cream would now not bad. After all, spring in Andalucia.