Description:

The trip to the southwest corner of Europe – from Portugal – is far away. But it is worthwhile to explore the fascinating mix of historic places, high mountains and rugged coastlines.


The way is not the goal, but he is effective. Getting to 2000 km in the north-east Portugal require perseverance and patient sit still. At length the border. “Bem-vindo a Tras-os-Montes”, welcome behind the mountains. That’s the name of the mountain region Montesinho, often referred to as the most backward area in the country. But what is already lagging behind? Tras-os-Montes is rather original, simple and lonely. The clocks ticking not in EU-speed. Bumpy roads wind through the gentle, gray-brown mountains over 1300 meters high and home to many wolves. It’s the end of April, spring is indeed ordered but not delivered yet. Only in the valleys already sprouting fresh green.

The small villages appear old and poor, for beautiful gardens and colorful facades is not enough money from agriculture. But they fit the melancholy of the landscape. The navigation in this network of small paths is not easy. Signs are scarce, the maps inaccurate. After I apply the Tenere is the third time in a dead end right in the field have, I try to follow my nose to the south, leave the country behind the mountains behind me.
A few hours later I caught up to the summer. 28 degrees in the valley of the Rio Douro. It almost looks like on the Moselle, the broad, quiet river valley, the hills completely covered with vineyards, ennobled now and then an old castle, the entire ensemble since 2001 by Unesco’s World Heritage status. From the grapes on the Rio Douro is pressed for centuries, the famous sweet Port wine.

South of the river begins the province Beira, a paradise for lovers of historical ruins. The ancient places, usually guarded by a more or less ruinous castle and fortress walls are very thick, some more than 1000 years on the rocky hump. Trancoso, Sortelha and Belmonte are the most popular cities. In Linhares I can go with the Yamaha through the village up to the mighty Castello. Before the post is the historic pillory. His wear tracks reveal that he was busy at that time used.

Linhares is located at the foot of the Serra da Estrela, Star Mountains. In fact, the stars get there anywhere in the country as close as here, but measures of Torre in 1993 meters and is the only ski area in Portugal. The topography promises a lot of fun, and the mountain roads redeem the promise. No matter which side I attack the Torre, here are the ways of the target. Although some roads are infested with such holes, sand and gravel, that I sometimes Tenere rather than hunting bear.

The landscape above 1500 meters has nothing southern remembers much more of the Norwegian mountain. Knee-high shrubs, mosses, lichens, rocks, debris and snow melt-water ponds, it is barren and cold. The high plateau of the summit occupy two ancient observatories, the only lift the country and huge parking lots. Less attractive, but for Guarantor has unrivaled views across the Star Mountains.

To the south, the mountains go slowly into a wide and gentle Hugelei. I cross the wide Rio Tejo, and agree to the Alentejo, one of the most isolated regions of the Iberian Peninsula. Driving in the Alentejo means calm, relaxed cruising between Eucalyptus avenues, cork trees and flower-filled meadows. Occasionally, small and beautiful cities. The houses are no longer earth-colored as in the north, but eye-and photo-friendly, white with colored edges.

The people of Alentejo are living mostly from agriculture, are melancholy and quiet as the neighbor Spain. This melancholy setting is called Saudade. Whether a reason is the dream of the glorious old time? When Portugal was a maritime nation with global power, as Ferdinand Magellan circumnavigated the world first, Pedro Álvares Brazil and Vasco da Gama discovered the sea route to India.

Wild rolled the Atlantic to the Costa Vicentina in Praia de Monte Clerigo.

The looted treasures of the colonies, whether from Brazil, Morocco, Angola and Timor, Portugal became one of the richest countries. The colonial era ended in 1999 with the return of Macao to China. It's all over. Today, Portugal is one more to the problem child of the EU, benefiting from the windfall from Brussels. The flows, however, sometimes in dubious projects. Many a staggering wave of the XT, verwarzte and almost traffic-free paths, of the suddenly dead straight, are much relieved to wide highways with hard shoulders. Big signs tell the sponsor: the EU. So what is really necessary?

Past the historic city of Evora with its Roman temple I are aiming for the coast, consider Southwest course. The width of the Alentejo with me, providing stress-free sliding with speed 90th Light north westerly wind, clear air, a few clouds sailing the deep blue sky, 22 degrees. Perfect. Long before I reach the sea, I smell the fresh, salty air.

At the lighthouse of Cabo Sardao ends the side road. Storks nest on the cliffs. Unique, master builds its nest stork but usually on rooftops or masts. To Cabo de Sao Vicente, the southwestern point of Europe, which the Romans to the end of the world - Finis Terrae - held, the last wave surfing paradise of Costa Vicentina.

Mostly, the coast is steep, rugged and inaccessible. Here and there narrow paths lead to beautiful bays on the sea, covered with fine sand beach, the waves delivered, garnished with small cafes and light years away from the bustle of the Algarve. The most beautiful spot I find at the Torre de Aspa, 130 meters above the sea. The wind blows with seven Beaufort, has piled several meters high waves breaking in a wide strip in front of the cliff. Dull roar and swirling foam fill the air. Wild West, untamed, raw nature, nobody, inspiring beautiful.

I expect the opposite on the south coast of the Algarve holiday dream for millions of sun-beach-sea-addicts. But not for motorcyclists. Almost the entire coastline is densely populated with apartments, apartments and hotels, some tasteful and elegant, others boring, pretentious or intimidating. At least there are none of the monstrous concrete walls as the Spanish Mediterranean. But barely old and original places like Ferragudo and Silves. And the coast? Often inaccessible, because in possession of holiday resorts, but surprisingly, bizarre and fantastically beautiful. Water, wind and time have modeled the soft rocks, caves, pinnacles and towers created between storybook beautiful beaches for swimming and sunbathing. This is where the photos that ennoble the Algarve in the travel brochures to your dream destination.

Wind and waves have modeled in the Algarve, bizarre rocks, as here at Ponta da Piedade in Lagos.

Albufeira I’m sick of annoying driving on the coast, are aiming for the Serra do Caldeirao. Finally feel good again curves man and machine for hours on narrow roads, uphill, downhill, here and there an ancient village, some of them are accessible only by dusty dirt roads. And yet it washes me in the evening back to the sea after Fuzeta. The restaurant at the Praca da Republica to order a fantastic tuna steak Portuguese style, with plenty of olive oil and onions. This a delicious red wine at the end of my tour Portugal. Tomorrow goes after Andalusia. But then scared me the weather report on TV. Over the Mediterranean is a rich deep, bringing the Iberian peninsula three days of rain. Oha. Everywhere? No, in the far west, it will stay beautiful.

On the Costa Vicentina So anyway my favorite Portugal. Providence? Coincidence? Anyway, I turn the Yamaha for the next day and go back to the Wild West.